Welcome to the SoCal Surf Scene

I just took my first surf lesson today and my gaaaawd was that incredible!!!

I told myself I would give it a try at some point when I moved out to LA back in Sept 2017. Sitting on my bum almost 3 years later, waiting for the world to set me up with a chance to try it, nothing was connecting. I wasn’t putting in any effort to give it a go so that’s partially my fault but recently the fire under my ass became ignited.

I have a friend who just booked her first lesson in a few weeks and I thought to myself “if she’s going out there and trying it solo dolo, why can’t you?”

I woke up yesterday, Googled “surf lessons in LA”, booked an appointment and had my first lesson within 24 hours. I was DONE procrastinating and instead stepped up the plate & made it happen! Good job Bob.

So how’d it go? Surprisingly really reaaaally well.

I met my instructor Theory at 10am in Santa Monica this morning. He’s 18 and had been surfing for the past 13 years of his life. I think it was safe to say I was being taught by someone who knew what they were doing and our energy connected instantly.

We spent the first ten minutes going over techniques. The do’s & don’ts while you’re trying to catch a wave and all that gooooood stuff. I was laughing while he was explaining the feet positioning while standing on the board cause I had 0 expectations that I was even going to come close to that today. I told myself this is going to be something new and I’ve got A LOT to learn so just have fun and go with the flow.

Zipped up my wetsuit, strapped on the board and I was ready to hit these waves. I felt like such a badass walking to the water with my board in hand like, yeah I’m a surfer what’s GOOD!!!

Truthfully was a crazy moment just walking into the water because I was pursuing something I had always wanted to do and it was FINALLY happening! This was the moment and I was READY for it!

We got out to the water and mentally I thought to myself, let’s do this thaaang.

It was cloudy, mid 60’s, the water felt fantastic and there was probably 50+ other surfers out there. I felt like I was stepping into a brand new community and I was PUMPED to be there!

To my surprise, I started to pick it up quick. By no means was I shredding the waves off the rip but I was getting the process down fast.

My guy Theory taught me a 3 step process of getting onto the board. 

Use your hands to push your upper body up while sliding your knees onto the board. Bring my left foot to the center of the board while kneeing on my right. Lastly GO FOR IT! Stand up, keep your legs wide, centered and stay LOW. Roger that Captain!

Within the first two tries I was actually getting up on the board, I couldn’t believe it! Now don’t get it twisted… I wasn’t carving up the ocean like butter BUT I was physically getting myself up and on top of the board. It felt so incredibly amazing just to be able to do that before losing my balance and splashing down into the beautiful Pacific Ocean.

Every time I fell, I came up from the water with a big ole smile on my face. I didn’t care that I wasn’t anywhere near perfect, I was having the time of my life finally giving it a go. It truly was a dream coming true!!!

Myself and Theory spent the next hour getting me to keep trying over and over and over again. I kept pushing back out to sea with confidence that this next one would be the one I’d actually ride into the shore. If it wasn’t that one… it HAD to be the next. I kept embracing it and by the end of the day I was able to actually ride the board for more than half a second. I couldn’t believe it!!

We even saw a pair of dolphins at one point. How fricken beautiful and cool is THAT!

So what was the best part?

First off, I’m already someone that LOVES the ocean. I love being at the beach so the idea of surfing always pulled me in because it was a water sport. Uhhh sign me UP!

Second off, it felt great to disconnect from the world for a bit. Do not disturb mode is awesome but not even having your phone on you elevates everything to another level. You aren’t able to check the time, who texted or called you or what Don Daddy Trump recently tweeted etc. Just being out there with no care in the world, no phone in my pocket was bliss. I was truly just livin’ in the moment. 

Thirdly, I loved the physical aspect of the sport. It’s a full body workout that is forcing you to use muscles you don’t use every day and I love that. Within the third run I looked at Theory and said - Ohhhh this ain’t no joke, my body is already feelin’ GOOD! He laughed, pushed me out to my next wave and I took a DIGGER!

Lastly, I love the challenge of learning or trying something new. It’s scary, nerve-wracking and a mix of emotions but it forces us to step into a form of discomfort. We’re taking an uncharted path we’ve never been down before and the best thing we can do is remain open-minded, go with the flow and give it all we’ve got. I live for moments like this!!

Will I be going back out for Round 2? You betcha. I’m actually going to start looking into buying a board sometime this week because I’m already hooked. I could easily just rent one the next time I go BUT me buying one is going to force me to commit, stay consistent and learn it.

Driving back to my house I had the windows down, music bumpin’ cruising on the 405 with a big smile on my face. Seeing the palm trees, the beautiful California sky and thinking about the bucket list item I had just crossed off it reminded me that THESE are the best moments of my life.

What’s that 1 thing you’ve been procrastinating trying or putting more energy into? There has to be something.

Whatever it may be, why keep waiting on it? Why not create the opportunity if nobody is knocking on your door asking you to tag along. Even if it ends up being something we don’t love doing, just the process of checking it off your bucket list is AMAZING! There’s so much to do and try in this world, the possibilities are endless.

All in all, looks like the SoCal surf scene just gained another member to the tribe! Let’s shred some waves baby!!!

The Bearded Man